Siwa, the most inaccessible of all Egypt's oases until very recently, is also one of the most fascinating. On the edge of the Great Sand Sea, its rich history includes a visit from Alexander the Great to consult the Oracle of Amun in 331 BC. Siwans have their own culture and customs and they speak a Berberf language, Wiwi, rather than Arabic. Many women still wear traditional costumes and silver jewellery like those displayed in The Traditional Siwan House museum in the town centre. Siwa remains one of the best places to buy jewellery, rugs, baskets and traditional robes and head-dresses decorated with antique coins.

The original settlement, Aghurmi, was superseded by Shali, founded in 1203. Built of salt-impregnated mud of kharsif, the fortress-like community expanded upwards rather than outwards . Set among thick palm groves, walled gardens and olve orchards, with numerous freshwater springs and salt lakes, modern Siwa clusters beneath the remains of ancient Shali. Climb through the ruins of the old city for magnificent views of the whole oasis . Walk, hire a bicycle or ride in a caretta( donkey cart) to outlying sights and bathing places. These include 26th Dynasty tombs with murals and inscriptions at Jebel al-Mawta (The Hill of the Dead) and the Oracle of Amun, and acropolis temple dating from around 550 BC. Near the Oracle is a ruined Temple of Amun and the famous Cleopatra Bath, a deep pool of bubbling water where you can bathe. Anthor favounite bathing spot is Fatnis Island, on the salt lake of Birket Siwa, surrounded by palm trees and beautiful scenery.